Author Topic: Engine Rebuild (Read 3124 times)

Bridge · « **Reply #15 on:** Sep 16, 2003, 05:10:05 am »

Well thats cool that you come here andhelp out even though you dont own a Celica... thanks for coming here!

Teranfirbt · « **Reply #16 on:** Sep 16, 2003, 06:07:05 am »

I painted my block gloss black, with the front cover and valve cover red, similar to the LC ones. i also painted the fan red, and plan on painting the fan shroud white to simulate the japanese flag when its spinning ^_^

Edit: I really wish i would have had a digicam when i was rebuilding the motor to take pictures.

83CelWA · « **Reply #17 on:** Sep 16, 2003, 04:51:06 pm »

I have a q for you guys who have done rebulids....I am going to be replacing my head gasket, so how invloved is it and what kind of major obsticals should I expect? (I don't mean about disconnecting all the hoses and wiring or resurfacing the head).

NightCelica · « **Reply #18 on:** Sep 16, 2003, 06:31:08 pm »

Why our you replacing your head gasket? is it blown?

The biggest is removing you exhaust manifold, it unbolts from the head just fine, but getting to the three bolts at the collector are a pain in @ss, so much so that when I did my I removed the bolts from the cat. and pulled the exhaust manifol and down pipe out throught the engine bay. it was easier than trying to get to those three bolts.
Be very careful with the studs on the exhaust manifold they brake very easily, I would replace them with new ones to be in the safe side. Clean the threads for the head bolts and the exhaust manifold, I would use a tap&die to do this plus it has a added benfit of making sure the threads are in good shape, but be very careful when using the tap+die so that you do not cross thread it, us lots of oil(clean) and air to blow out the stud holes.

The next is making sure you got all the bolt in the under side on the intake manifold, for those that have removed the thier intakes before know what I mean.
There a is special type bolt on the intake manifold that goes throught the themorsat housing. Buy that tool before starting any thing it is a large allen(I think that what it is called) type head.

Make sure the chain does not slip off the crank gear, you will not be able to see the crank gear but if you use a piece of wood between the chain to keep tension on the gear.

I also had trouble with the power sterring pump when I was bolting back in place.

Bridge · « **Reply #19 on:** Sep 16, 2003, 06:40:57 pm »

I was able to tie the exhaust manifold out of the way for i wouldnt have to unbolt it fromt he pipe. and my power steering was a pain too... i also had to tie that out of the way.

Just make sure you remember where all the vacuum lines and wires go. and there are some bolt that are unique and used once on the head so try to remember where they go too.

And before you install your new head gasket be sure to get every little tiny bit of any left over head gasket or ridges/bumps on the head and block surfaces. If you dont make both surfaces perfectly flat it'll higher the risk of head gasket relaps

Its rather easy... and its not hard to remember where all the lines go... and if you forget just refer to a manual... although i recomend useing tape to lable each line/hose you take off you you'll know where it exactly goes.

To keep you bolts oringized i just simple got zip-lock bags and labled the bags the location i got the bolts from. (i.e. "intake manifold", "exhaust manifold", etc.) although you wont have so many bolts to worry about as if you were rebuilding the whole engine. thats a different story!

Teranfirbt · « **Reply #20 on:** Sep 16, 2003, 07:41:10 pm »

When rebuilding the engine i used several 12"x8" pieces of corrugated cardboard to hold bolts. just stick holes in the cardboard with a sharp knife, and label it. i also tied the exhaust manifold to keep it out of the way, and the PS pump on my car just happened to sit quite nicely in the manifold... other than that just make sure its perfectly flat, you might also wanna think about replacing the head bolts if they have a lot of miles...

toynado · « **Reply #21 on:** Sep 17, 2003, 01:34:45 am »

i blew a head gasket
cuz i didn't check the block when i had the head resurfaced
it just got decked .013"
good reason for a head gasket not to last...

it got real hot
i parked it and a few seconds later there wuz a big BANG !
i assume that wuz the head cracking
dunno actually

here's a pic of my mechanic

flyingbrick · « **Reply #22 on:** Sep 17, 2003, 02:49:08 am »

.013 is alot to be warped. You should be using a head saver shim. I used to work in a machine shop and never saw one of these that warped. If a customers head was warped more than .008 I would usually sell them a used casting. I used to have over a dozen of these heads, four or five good short blocks, a couple of carbureted manifolds with carbs on them, two w58 trannies. I had all kinds of stuff. People would just junk these cars for the hell of it, I'd get them to the shop and torch the shit out of them on saturdays. I even had a guy come in the one day wanting to know if I had a crank. I told him to be back in an hour and took one out of a 22r I had gotten a week earlier. I got that sucker out without taking the head off. Left the rods and pistons in the motor. Quick hundred bucks.

NightCelica · « **Reply #23 on:** Sep 17, 2003, 10:10:12 am »

I had forgotting, when I replaced my head gasket I also replaced the head bolts. New one from Toyota, I had 250Kmiles on the motor and thought it was cheap insurance but I paid like $118 for the bolts because I bought them at the Dealer.

83CelWA · « **Reply #24 on:** Sep 18, 2003, 06:15:12 pm »

The reason why I am thinking about replacing my head gasket is because there is a small amount of oil that leaks somehwre around there (when the car gets warmed up) and I think there is a small crack causing this. Plus the car was never taken care of and it would be just one more thing to relace to make sure the car is happy.

wadadlianu · « **Reply #25 on:** Sep 18, 2003, 06:29:50 pm »

It might be your cam seal or your camshaft cover. Alot less work than the headgasket route

83CelWA · « **Reply #26 on:** Sep 19, 2003, 06:15:17 am »

What all is involved in checking/changing it?

wadadlianu · « **Reply #27 on:** Sep 19, 2003, 02:07:05 pm »

I would do an engine wash and get rid of the oil, then see where its leaking from. Changeing the valve cover seal is as easy are removing the cover and cleaning the area, then putting the seal in correctly. I would get a Haynes or something to do anything else.

83CelWA · « **Reply #28 on:** Sep 20, 2003, 05:20:14 am »

I have washed the engine before, but the only problem is that it only leaks a little when it gets warmed up all the way, and I don't really feel like pulling off the side of the road every once and a while to check where exactly the leak is coming from (but I am going to have to anyways). Also I have both the Haynes and Chiltons books. I have noticed that if you use both they kinda filll in the gaps of eachother..

NightCelica · « **Reply #29 on:** Sep 20, 2003, 10:55:31 am »

The valve cover and the half-moon pastic discs can be a pain, if they are leaking it would look like a head gasket problem or a front cover seal problem. I've have bought a valve cover gasket from Autozone(fel-pro) it was all wrong it did not match up to the factory one, so I returned it and bought a Toyota one, but I'm still having a problem with oil leaking from around the valve cover.