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Author Topic: Engine Rebuild  (Read 3119 times)

Offline 83CelWA

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Engine Rebuild
« Reply #30 on: Sep 20, 2003, 11:27:56 am »
Half-moon plastic disks? Are they under the valve cover? So you had a similar leak and it was just the valve cover gasket? If so that should be pretty easy to change out.
1985 Celipra GT-S (driven by Chris):
6M-GE bored .50 over. 210cc injectors from......not a Toyota! Delta 272 re-grind cams. Carter high-flow fuel pump.
Pacesetter header w/custom 2.5" straight exhaust. Open air intake filter w/3" piping to TB. 65mm TB & ported AFM.
4:10 rear w/disk brakes from Supra. BillyM shifter bushing kit. Swapped most interior over to black. T3 camber plates.
935 Budget Coilover kit. KYB AGX struts. Eibach Sport rear supra springs. T3 Needle bearing upper perches.

Offline wadadlianu

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« Reply #31 on: Sep 20, 2003, 04:39:13 pm »
Retorque the valve cover. Those 10mm nuts have a way of backing off a bit. Keep in mind that you will have to retorque them since the new gaskets will take some time to conform to the new shape

Offline NightCelica

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« Reply #32 on: Sep 21, 2003, 01:20:14 pm »
Remeber the 10mm nut are in in-lbs not foot-lbs.  I have anyways had a problem of the valve cover nuts losening over time.

Offline wadadlianu

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« Reply #33 on: Sep 21, 2003, 01:50:14 pm »
Oh by the way, the half moon disks he is refering to are the cam seals


Also correct on the 10mm torque specs.  Please dont wrench on them, as you would a lug nut

Offline 83CelWA

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« Reply #34 on: Sep 21, 2003, 02:24:42 pm »
Cool, thanks for clearing up the half-moon disk thing. Yeah I know not to wrench on the bolts (I am a mechanic), nothing worse then snapping a bolt head off and having to drill it out (saw someone do it and had to help them get it out).  
1985 Celipra GT-S (driven by Chris):
6M-GE bored .50 over. 210cc injectors from......not a Toyota! Delta 272 re-grind cams. Carter high-flow fuel pump.
Pacesetter header w/custom 2.5" straight exhaust. Open air intake filter w/3" piping to TB. 65mm TB & ported AFM.
4:10 rear w/disk brakes from Supra. BillyM shifter bushing kit. Swapped most interior over to black. T3 camber plates.
935 Budget Coilover kit. KYB AGX struts. Eibach Sport rear supra springs. T3 Needle bearing upper perches.

Offline wadadlianu

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« Reply #35 on: Sep 21, 2003, 02:35:29 pm »
Yeah I have done my fair share of drilling out bolts and retapping threads.  

Offline toynado

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« Reply #36 on: Sep 21, 2003, 05:37:43 pm »
i've never had any prob with the valve cover gasket
it's a nice one
i only tighten it finger tite
then half a turn
never leaked

i used to overtorque it
but if you don't, you can re use it perhaps forever

Offline flyingbrick

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« Reply #37 on: Sep 22, 2003, 02:36:33 am »
Well the motor is done. I got it in the car on saturday and fires it up. It sounds pretty good. I'm not 100% sure but I think there might be a very slight miss at 2500 rpm's. I'll have to double check the timing tomorrow. It's just kind of weird that it is only happening at exactly 2500 rpm's Maybe it's just the powershift occuring with the cam at that point. As soon as you pass 2500 rpm's the thing screams right up to 5000 rpm's like a bat out of hell. Do you guys think that maybe I should adjust the airflow meter? I don't have an a/f meter so I really can't tell what it's doing by anything other than sound.


Offline toynado

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« Reply #38 on: Sep 22, 2003, 04:13:24 am »
search the web for how to analyze your spark plugs
you can see exactly wut's happening in your combustion chamber once you learn this secret
it is so simple
and not really a secret
just so many peepl seem not to know it
you could do it at 2500 and see wut your mixture is
everyone should be doing this anyway
it tells you all about your motor

Offline Teranfirbt

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« Reply #39 on: Sep 22, 2003, 06:17:58 am »
hmmmm, my car seems to have the same miss at about 2500... but its only in 4th gear, none of the other gears.  
1983 Celica GT-S 2RZ swap: Deered 2014 :(
1986 Tercel 4WD 4AFE Swap: Going strong
1986 MR2: What a beast!
2014 Elantra GT: The reliable one

"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." ~ Albert Einstein

Offline wadadlianu

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« Reply #40 on: Sep 22, 2003, 02:50:54 pm »
I have had that problem, but with my Accord and it turned out to be my plug wires. It only happened at a certain rev and under load

Offline dynamic73

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« Reply #41 on: Sep 22, 2003, 04:38:16 pm »
Yea that's what I'd look at 1st. If the wires are not OEM. And are some cheap aftermarket wires. Throw them away and get a good cord set from Toyota.


"IF YOU RACE IT...IT WILL BRAKE"

Offline flyingbrick

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« Reply #42 on: Sep 23, 2003, 12:37:30 am »
Ive got toyota wires on the car right now. They are only a couple of months old but only have about 200 miles on them. I had somebody check out my vacuum advance on the distributor and they said it is bad. It has to diaphrams on it, one in the front and one just behind it. The one in the front is for constant vacuum and the one in the back is for ported vacuum. The one in the back is not holding any vacuum, it bleeds right down. The other thing is that we checked the intake manifold vacuum and it was kind of low, about 17 inches. It should really be at about 22 with a fresh motor. The other thing is that the vacuum gauge is bouncing around leading me to beleive that the valves are adjusted too tight. I'll re adjust the valves tomorrow night and try to get the advance unit for my distributor. I should mention one other thing, the car only has the slight miss when I try too maintain a rpm above 2500, if it is under a load the thing runs fine. This is leading me to beleive that my ported vacuum advance is the major cause of the problem.


Offline toynado

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« Reply #43 on: Sep 23, 2003, 05:42:10 am »
i'd check your manifold to head nuts too
intake leak?

i found one of mine almost finger tite
defies reason how that happened

Offline flyingbrick

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« Reply #44 on: Sep 24, 2003, 02:20:22 am »
I'm gonna spray some carb cleaner all over the thing tomorrow to rule out any vacuum leaks, but I doubt  I'll find any. I readjusted the valves today and now I have a perfect reading of 22 inches of vacuum. I also checked the plug gaps and they were all fine. After that I brought the car to my friends shop( he has 3 third gen's) and he checked out the vacuum to the distributor for me and checked the timing and all that other stuff and he says that I can definately rule out an ignition problem at this point. He did however say that it seemed like a fuel problem, clogged injectors. I then brought the car to my other friend and he took it for a ride and said that I should check my coil and if that wasn't it to go ahead and replace all the injectors. I checked out the simptoms in the toyota manual and from what I can see it looks like the car is running lean. I'll try adjusting the mass air, but if that doesn't fix it I'm throwing a new set of injectors in it.