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Author Topic: Stock Fan Wheeler Upgrade  (Read 5604 times)

Offline shonuff

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« on: May 09, 2007, 05:42:28 am »
when im offroading i spend alot of time @ a high rev or redline, without much ground speed and the stock fan wont move enuff air. I have also noticed that if ya spend a lot of time like that the fuid from the fan will magicly disapear, only to reapear all over your eng bay <_< . now you have this cool fan that looks like it werks in the driveway but when you start moving the incoming air stops it, i have fixed this problem the only way i know how....with a big drill bit :usa:


pro's:  fan spins all the time, run water in 90+ temps, stay cool in the most demanding of situations

cons: takes a lil longer to warm up, revs up a lil slower, may kill your water pump faster(ive had one on a stock 20r w/150k for 40k)

parts list:
3 large identical bolts and nuts
4 fender mount screws


first ya need a stock fan ;)  now take off the four nuts that hold the blades on


now remove the 4 screws that are left on the cover, use a big phillips or vice grips as these have some torque and strip easy but dont worry you dont need em just get em off


use a rubber mallet and a flat screwdriver ta pry it apart watch out for the fluid. notice the three holes in the fly wheel


find the biggest bit ya got close to the size of the 3 holes

drill one hole throught the back plate, watch out as the clutch will catch on the bit on the backside, use a vice


put the biggest bolt you can fit through the hole


didnt really need this pic but my tape measure is cool i think you'll agree :shades:


put a nut on the bolt to lock the two parts so the next 2 holes are easier to do, and aligined properly...MOST IMPORTANT!!!!!!


install all three bolts and nuts use locktight and tighten the crap out of them




if you have a power sterring pump with the bracket that bolts to the front of the head skip down ta where it says "power steering"


manual steering rack or box[/b]

remove the 4 studs from the back plate, find 4 fender mount bolts


bolt the fan on with them in the holes for the studs, now your done. install it and marvel at how cool your eng runs :shades:


power steering[/b]

now i forgot about this part while doing this so i got pissed off and didnt take pics but i got another fan and will do it again if ya really need em.

teh thing is, with the method discribed above the fan is too close to the bolt that holds the p/s bracket on, so it overlaps the fan by about 1/2 and makes the most horrible noise :wall: and no amout of "self clearancing" will make it shut up :angry: and if you strip a waterpump to fan nut and your vice grips suck you have to take off the radiator and grill to fix it :mad:

anyway...

the cover you removed has 8 mount holes in it you need the thicker ones to act as spacers and the cover wont fit back on.

so stick just the thicker "spacer" in a vice and give it about 3 good whacks and the cover should go flying leaving the spacer in the vice cut off clean. you could use a band saw or some nifty tool i dont have to seperate the spacers :P

now take the 4 "spacers" and put them on the leftover studs, put the fan on top and install the 4 nuts with lock tight.

congratulations not only did you make somethin cool but you got ta break stuff in the process, have a beer :cheers:  

coming soon....

plentiful junkyard electric fan upgrade :thumbs:  

Offline a2ndopinion

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« Reply #1 on: May 09, 2007, 06:36:07 am »
Yeah, that is a cool tape measure! Is that your peter meter? 2 5/16"? :poke:

Wouldn't it just be easier to go to the JY and get an electric fan or 2? I have 1 off of a GM - Olds I think, with an aftermarket relay and t-stat that just sticks through the radiator near the upper hose. Works slicker than snot on a glass door knob!
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Offline Teranfirbt

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« Reply #2 on: May 09, 2007, 06:59:00 am »
Yep, I've got fans out of a Mitsubishi Starion, works great.
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Offline tomyc48

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« Reply #3 on: May 09, 2007, 07:39:19 am »
hell i ran my old geo metro fan in my VtecEater adn it did teh job just fine.
i'm gettgin readt to bolt up my MK1 fan though jus to see if the fan clutch is my problem
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Offline CeliToad

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« Reply #4 on: May 09, 2007, 04:13:14 pm »
22REs like electric fans. Especially if you lose A/C and PS at the same time.

But, you can also just order the finger removers if you want a fixed fan. They'll move more air.

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Offline Sigma Projects

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« Reply #5 on: May 09, 2007, 05:00:01 pm »
why does that fan look soo messed up in blade placement :blink:  
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Offline bill90

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« Reply #6 on: May 09, 2007, 07:19:53 pm »
Quote
why does that fan look soo messed up in blade placement :blink:
Haha, that does look weird. Like someone just threw them together without any order, 2 2 2 1. Shouldn't they have made it even all the way around, so it's balanced when it spins and doesn't make it spin funny?

Offline tomyc48

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« Reply #7 on: May 09, 2007, 09:26:47 pm »
it actualyl is realy well ballenced, they place them that way so you can get to yruo crnak pully if you need to tunr the motor by hand.  if you look at your stcok fan it has one fin that is out of place for that reason.
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83 Celica GT-S (daily driver/ pizza car)
88 MK3.  RIP
81 MK1 (2JZ project) on hold.
85 Celica GT (pizza car)RIP
85 Celica GT-S 7M-GTE swap. sold to craig.
83 Celica GT 2xR hybrid (V-TEC EATER) RIP
81 Celica GT (the Origanal V-TEC Eater) RIP
79 Celica GT (woman driver/red light, enough said) RIP

Offline 83GTCoupe

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« Reply #8 on: May 10, 2007, 01:40:43 am »
Quote
22REs like electric fans. Especially if you lose A/C and PS at the same time.

But, you can also just order the finger removers if you want a fixed fan. They'll move more air.

Finger removers is exactly what those are!! I was replacing a steerring box on my 78 Caprice with a quick ratio box, and sliced my middle finger to the knuckle and bone when I grazed one of the blades. I have heard of others getting careless, and losing fingers while the engine was running.
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Offline tomyc48

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« Reply #9 on: May 10, 2007, 03:48:25 am »
my friend was gonna btu oen for his elcamino adn i talked him into teh fiberglass oen instead for that exact reason.
* FCV=future celica victim
83 Celica GT-S (daily driver/ pizza car)
88 MK3.  RIP
81 MK1 (2JZ project) on hold.
85 Celica GT (pizza car)RIP
85 Celica GT-S 7M-GTE swap. sold to craig.
83 Celica GT 2xR hybrid (V-TEC EATER) RIP
81 Celica GT (the Origanal V-TEC Eater) RIP
79 Celica GT (woman driver/red light, enough said) RIP

Offline shonuff

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« Reply #10 on: May 10, 2007, 03:54:23 am »
well i dont have a electric fan lying around and this was free ;)

desperate times call for desperate measures :lol:

id rather lose a lil horse power for now on the celi so i can save the $12.50 for the s/c. but i will always @ least carry one in my wheeler, it would suck to kill your fan in a river miles from a auto parts store, and it keeps me in check so its harder to over rev

besides the stock fan is crap, why not have a lil fun with it :thumbs:  

Offline tomyc48

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« Reply #11 on: May 10, 2007, 04:25:10 am »
exzacary :!:  
* FCV=future celica victim
83 Celica GT-S (daily driver/ pizza car)
88 MK3.  RIP
81 MK1 (2JZ project) on hold.
85 Celica GT (pizza car)RIP
85 Celica GT-S 7M-GTE swap. sold to craig.
83 Celica GT 2xR hybrid (V-TEC EATER) RIP
81 Celica GT (the Origanal V-TEC Eater) RIP
79 Celica GT (woman driver/red light, enough said) RIP

Offline a2ndopinion

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« Reply #12 on: May 20, 2008, 06:43:16 am »
I know this is a year old, but since shonuff brought it up again...

I was going to mention this when it was originally posted. The reason the fan blades are not evenly spaced on the aluminum flex fan is for harmonics - plain and simple - it reduces noise.
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Offline shonuff

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« Reply #13 on: May 20, 2008, 07:16:57 am »
ya locking the stock fan makes it really loud, drowns out all the good noises from the eng @ high revs.

this video is a killer example,  i am rapping it out, but mostly you can only hear the fan whirring.


Offline 83GTCoupe

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« Reply #14 on: May 22, 2008, 10:25:23 pm »
Quote
and t-stat that just sticks through the radiator near the upper hose. Works slicker than snot on a glass door knob!
Bob, would that be like the Volvo CTS that just slips right into the rubber seal between the rad tank and CTS? No threads at all. Just a round brass plug with the two wires coming off of it.
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