Nothing pretty build thread

[corax]

That's a good idea, thanks.  I was trying with a prybar and hammer, but there's a sleeved bolt hole in the way.  Now that the frame rails are cut down, I should be able to knock out the sleeve and then reweld it in place when I'm done

[corax]

More progress.  I knocked out the vertical bolt sleeve, but couldn't get the crease out of the frame rail no matter what I tried.  So I welded the sleeve back into place then cut some metal and welded in place to "scab over" or bridge the crease.  I had to grind it smooth & level since the crossmember covers it anyway


I honestly think the front end is more "square" now than it probably was from the factory.  Everything is even to within 1/32" and all angles match to less than .5 degrees side-to-side.  Welded in the frame rail end plates today, tube bumper should be done in a day or two.  The metal barrels on the the bottom of the crossmember are for a skid plate

[swan song]

I've known guys that reshelled a race car and pick up SECONDS in lap time.

[corax]

still a small bit of work to be done to tidy up the look, but getting closer to paint

[swan song]

Are you ever going to paint that front skid plate black? 

[corax]

don't think paint on the HDPE would last very long, besides, it'll match the rest of the car in a little while

[corax]

"nothing pretty" is getting all gussied up
belt moulding/trim removed and holes filled
I'm considering bolting on the "pull forward" door handles that I have (they will bolt on, linkage is different)


first coat of Interlux Brightside Blue Glo White marine polyurethane, rolled on and tipped.  Tomorrow it gets its first wet sand with 400 grit, I'm planning on 3-4 coats.  This is the paint that all the cool kids who were using Rustoleum to roll on paint upgraded to - better self leveling and a more durable finish, but still easy as falling down to apply.  Hood will (eventually) be redone in a black satin (again)


I'm still not sure what my final plan is for the paint.  I kinda feel like I wanna do a 2 tone.  Back in the day, I loved the paint on the RealTime Racing Hondas - maybe a battleship grey instead of the orange, no paint above the front wheel arch, and have the grey go up the C pillar and across the roof

[swan song]

Might I suggest the TVC livery without the colors? http://www.wreckedmagazine.com/blog/2015/03/23/tommy-van-cleef-goes-throwback-trd-livery-for-formula-drift-pro-2/
 Maybe a three “shades of grey”. Would look sick on white car with a satin black hood. Make one stripe the same shade and sheen as the hood.

Just chuckin’ ideas. 

[Sigma Projects]

The white rattle can is already making it look better now that you shaved the molding. For rally cars I've always been partial to the Red/White like Marlboro livery, TTE Celicas or 70's rally Celicas.

Or like this group 2 spec Celica recreation.
http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/06/special-stage-recreating-a-group-2-spec-celica/

[corax]

I like the traditional yellow-orange-red livery, but not on an otherwise all-white car (at least, not on mine).  The Group B livery is awesome, but without box flares, it just doesn't seem quite right.  I've also seen a white-grey-black-red livery similar to the traditional 3 stripe which could work.  Basically . . . all ideas are welcome, I'm just trying to avoid a lot of curves in the paint lines.

Sigma, this is a foam roller paint job The Interlux Brightside paint self-levels very well and I've seen some pics of mirror finishes being achieved (I don't expect this of myself, though I'm trying to do it well).  There's a HUGE thread on it HERE

This is what I came up with in Paint (grey will extend to the lower panel in front of the front wheel).  Black might be better, but I hate black on any car I own (the upkeep makes me neurotic). 
The actual grey I want to use is called Steel Grey <- click link for example

[swan song]

How many quarts?

[corax]

Right now it seems like I can get one coat out of 1/2 - 2/3 qt, so 2 qts should be enough

[swan song]

Right now it seems like I can get one coat out of 1/2 - 2/3 qt, so 2 qts should be enough

hard to tell, But do you think there is more real estate on the back end of a coupe or a hatchback?

[corax]

I think they're about the same, though a coupe might have a bit more sheet metal to cover due to the trunk lid (vs. hatch glass)

[ozzie]

Yeah, but the hatch has bigger C pillars, so it's pretty much a wash