Jun's Current and progressing Celica thread!

[swan song]

HAHAHA! Probably not necessary at all in SoCal, but extremely helpful in the NE, where snow can get as much as 48" high. 

It's why I swapped to Stock suspension for rallycross.

[Dr.Jun.Manabe]

It's why I swapped to Stock suspension for rallycross.

 

I used to take my celi on the dirt trail back roads when it was stock like that, fun as hell to rally from what I remember!

[swan song]

Very fun. You can lean on the brakes to induce oversteer at will, at any speed. The LSD diff locks and just carries you through with full slip angle. And it makes the 22re seem like it has 200ft lbs of torq.

[83GTCoupe]

Very fun. You can lean on the brakes to induce oversteer at will, at any speed. The LSD diff locks and just carries you through with full slip angle. And it makes the 22re seem like it has 200ft lbs of torq.

I have a '79 Supra disc brake rear, installed on my 1st '83. It's the 3.90 gears. I also have a Supra LSD in the attic of my garage. I don't know if I want to swap in to the 4.10 ratio. Just want the posi unit. The 3.90 gears threw my speedo off. The 4.10 will make it worse, I'm sure, and I need to look into an automatic trans gear replacement, before making that swap, that will compensate and correct for the diff R&P swap. Itching badly to get the posi unit swapped in though.

[Dr.Jun.Manabe]

Soooo, after some pretty hard drifting shenanigans in the rain on Saturday night, my open diff started making some funny noises that progressively got louder as I increased speed .... I knew it was on it's way out, I mean, one tooth from a spider gear came out with the drain magnet on my last fluid change, but I drove it like that this whole last year with no issues. Now it's not happy at all, I am willing to bet a couple more teeth are chilling on the drain magnet lol! Hey, I drove it to work today, thing is for how long? But of course I planned for this, I have a low mile complete differential carrier on the side with a R&P still in beautiful shape, and this is what is going to reside in it in the next week or so:
 

The Tomei 1.5 way LSD for a zenki AE86 is already on the way, along with a bearing kit and solid pinion spacer from Weir.

I also have some other updates I will be posting when I am home where I diagnosed and fixed a potentially dangerous braking problem I have had for a while.

[ratny8264]

So it finally gave out huh. Damn.... im overhere smacking poles in that same rain storm lol

[swan song]

Ooohh... someone's wallet just got lighter!

[Dr.Jun.Manabe]

Ooohh... someone's wallet just got lighter!

Yup! Haha. Lucky, Tomei differentials are much cheaper than they used to be, I got mine for 725 out the door, so I am pretty happy about that. Sorta funny how the amount of money for parts I have put in the car excessively outweighs the value of the car Well I never plan on selling her, never ever! She's about to hit 320000 miles too, so the rear end has quite a history behind it being original.

[swan song]

That's how I had to justify my financial decisions on my Celica. It'll never recoup, but the way I see it I'm building a "fun toy" and "fun" can be monetized. Therefore, when/if I sell it after the v8 swap, the KBB and bean counters can pound sand.

[Dr.Jun.Manabe]

Here is the update from last weekend, ended up doing a brake job on the car because I was having issues with the fronts locking too easy for quite a while.


A guy I know in Eugene is currently making traction brackets for me to remedy this issue. (Thanks Brad if you see this)


My buddy stole my wheels to see the difference between his 30lb 17x7.5 wheels with 225/45s RS-3s  and my lightweight 15's with crummy dunlops. Needless to say his P10 G20 picked up a whole lot quicker, and surprisingly fit my 15x8 0 offset because of the amount of rolling he did to get the 225's to clear on his G20, not an easy feat.




lol.





Well there's my issue. Both sides, the wheel cylinders were seized. Surprising since I rebuilt them 3 years ago.






New hotness.


Oh hello EBC Yellowstuff pads

 
Yeah, I was a lazy ass and didn't get new rotors, didn't feel like setting wheel bearings. I'll slowly seat the pads in the next 1000 miles to make sure they mate flat to the rotor before I actually burn em in.


And then I bled the car with Motul RBF650, and woahhhh, even before initial bedding in, the brakes feel AMAZING, like holy shit how did I drive the car so long with it how it was, it was ridiculous. And after that is the story were I proceeded to go drifting in the rain for fun and fuck up my differential.

Sooooo after the second day of driving to work with it how it was, the rear end noise got reeeeaaal bad haha. If you are friends with me on facebook you will know what I mean. The car is parked for now till all of my new parts come in so I don't risk damaging anything else even further or risking my life for that matter. On a good note though, this came in today!! Giggling like a little school LOL!





YAY!




Product placement ftw haha.


OH, this came in a couple days ago too heh.

Next update will probably be differential related lol.

[yella81celica]

I'll slowly seat the pads in the next 1000 miles to make sure they mate flat to the rotor before I actually burn em in.

There is some interesting info on here about the "proper" way to set in new pads/rotors.  I think it was a conversation between Bob and Derek.

[yella81celica]

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bed-in-theory-definitions-and-procedures/brake-pad-bed-in

Hmmm, I noticed that the article is a bit short after I re-read it..
Basically, bedding in street pads involves getting the rotors and pads good and hot, but not too hot.

CAUTION: Bedding in brakes must be done in an area with little traffic where you can accelerate and decelerate rapidly in a safe manner without causing an accident. Don't come cryin' to me if you crash or get hit because you weren't paying attention.

When I did mine, I started with 5 50 to 20 mph stops at about 50% brake force, then 5 60 to 30 stops at 50%, then 5 60 to 20 mph stops just before lock up, 80-90% brake force... Get the car to speed, throw in neutral, and just use the brakes.

DO NOT let the brakes lock, and avoid stopping during the entire procedure. The best place to do this is a back country road.

Let the brakes cool by cruising a bit, 5-10 minutes, then repeat. With fresh pads you'll know when to stop each session when the brakes truly fade, as in the pedal is solid but the brakes don't slow the car down as well. When this happens, let them cool immediately. With fresh pads and rotors, the bedding in process will make the brakes get better then worse, until it cools down. You will smell that "burning brakes" smell something fierce, this is ok, it's just the left over adhesives in the pad material baking out.

The primary purpose of bedding in the brakes is to transfer an even layer of pad material to the rotor, the secondary purpose is to bake out any excess adhesive and binder in the pad material.

If the fluids boils, as in the pedal gets spongy, stop immediately, go home, and change to DOT 4 fluid, and do it again...

Again, I cannot stress enough, DO NOT STOP THE CAR WHILE BEDDING IN BRAKES. You WILL cause a high spot in the pad material transfer, and you WILL get brakes that feel like they're warped.

It'll be interesting to see if bedding in the brakes will help, since you've already driven around with them. At this point, it can't hurt, and it may help even things out.

[Dr.Jun.Manabe]

There is some interesting info on here about the "proper" way to set in new pads/rotors.  I think it was a conversation between Bob and Derek.

I know of this way as I would normally do this if my rotors were new, the problem is mine aren't lol. The issue bedding new pads to old rotors is that the surfaces are not flat, the pad area on the EBCs span out a lil bit more than my last pads, so they sit on top of the lip that was made on the rotor from the previous pad, easy driving over 500-1000 miles will gradually "shape" the pad to the rotors, then after I would check the pad wear to confirm this, and would proceed to bed the pads in like normal. EBC Even goes out of their way by saying to do the same for new pads and rotors, but for 250 miles before bedding in the pads. If I force the pads to bed now, I would end up having a whole lot more issues. This could have been avoided if I bought new or resurfaced my rotors, but the way I am doing it I have done before and works well.   

*edit* Burnishing, that's the word I was looking for lol. From stoptech's website, "Consequently, when installing new pads on a used rotor, there is a small window of time in which the new pads will rapidly wear down against the peaks and valleys of the existing rotor face. This process of re-establishing the wear interface is often referred to as burnishing.."

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bed-in-theory-definitions-and-procedures/bed-in-faq

*double edit* What it boils down to is I am breaking them in according to what the EBC instructions say, thanks though for looking out Adam.

[swan song]

I run EBC red stuff. Fantastic for everyday driving. ALWAYS follow the bed in procedure from THAT manufacturer. Why? If something happens (like pad glazing) and you smash someone, it's on EBC, not you. Interesting turbo manifold. How much?

[Dr.Jun.Manabe]

I run EBC red stuff. Fantastic for everyday driving. ALWAYS follow the bed in procedure from THAT manufacturer. Why? If something happens (like pad glazing) and you smash someone, it's on EBC, not you. Interesting turbo manifold. How much?

Manifold is based off the diy template on the truck forums from what I can tell, who ever put it together had pretty nice welds and smoothed out the merges nicely. I got it for $250 and looks to have never been used.