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Author Topic: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap  (Read 6518 times)

Offline RedCar

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Re: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap
« Reply #15 on: Sep 29, 2018, 03:30:59 pm »
Creative pulley work, I like it!
How hard was it to get the custom idler pulley to be in the right plane with the other pulleys? Can it be shimmed into position? Will an OEM belt size still work or can you get a shorter one?
83 GT Sport

Offline corax

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Re: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap
« Reply #16 on: Sep 30, 2018, 12:58:26 am »
Creative pulley work, I like it!
How hard was it to get the custom idler pulley to be in the right plane with the other pulleys? Can it be shimmed into position? Will an OEM belt size still work or can you get a shorter one?

Thanks.
Wasn't too tough to get the idler in the same plane.  A piece of angle iron across the face of a stock pulley will show if the new pulley is at the right depth or if it's parallel.  I think parallelism is more important to not throwing the belt off.  A small bit of difference in depth can be absorbed by the belt, especially if it's not a very short run to the adjacent pulleys.  The idler can be shimmed a bit if needed, but I think I'm close enough at about 1/16" depth difference.
I will need a shorter belt though, the last pic is with the stock belt on.  With the tensioner at rest, I have 2155mm, and pulled all the way tight, I have 2095mm around all the pulleys (measured with a tailor's tape measure).  I'm just gonna pick something in the middle and see if it's tight enough (shorter belt=more strain on the tensioner spring=tighter belt), so maybe a fairly common 6PK2120 belt (6PK = ribs in the serpentine belt, 2120 = belt length in mm)
'85 RA64 Celica GT notchback

Offline corax

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Re: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap
« Reply #17 on: Oct 07, 2018, 05:10:28 pm »
Been a busy last few days . . .
Installed the trans adapter plate. started by removing the front trans plate




side by side view of the adapter plate and the stock front trans plate, note all the oil passages machined into the adapter


all cleaned and ready for the adapter


adapter plate installed and locations marked for hoses


5/8" holes drilled



 . . . which had to be elongated slightly because my marks were a hair off, here's the distance to the center of the hose


hoses installed


short piece of rubber hose over the clutch slave hose and the holes sealed with Toyota FIPG



Spec Stage 2 Clutch set I'll be using



ready for the real work to begin, last day the 7MGE will be powering my 4runner


couple hours later.  trans removed, engine disconnected and ready to get pulled


end of day 1
'85 RA64 Celica GT notchback

Offline corax

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Re: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap
« Reply #18 on: Oct 07, 2018, 06:06:57 pm »
the stock oil filter adapter interferes with the frame rail, so this adapter was installed.  I'll be running JIC (-8AN) connectors/hoses to a remote mount filter


steering linkage ground down . . . you'll see why in a little bit


this is the original brake line routing, the 2 lines in the middle had to be moved, the fuel line I added years ago on the right was removed - again, you'll see in a few pics how/why


end of day 2 - trans was installed (rear was set on cross member, front was held up with a ratchet strap between the frame rails), engine is test fitted with the oil pan resting on a 5/8" piece of wood on top of the steering linkage (for clearance while I fabbed up the engine brackets, should have gone with a 3/4" piece), and the engine brackets were finalized and painted


the next day, I pulled the engine again to clearance some items.  you can see the brake lines which were getting pinched by the valve cover were just moved over to a new bolt hole and the firewall was clearanced a bit with a body hammer.  I would have liked to move everything back another inch, but this was the best I could get it.


clearance after the engine was reinstalled


steering shaft clearance on the driver side (there's actually a tiny bit more than it looks like) - remember that under acceleration, the engine is going to roll away from it
this is also another reason why I couldn't move it back any further - another 1/2" back and the valve cover would be hitting the steering shaft coupler


third reason why I couldn't go back any further, the engine is right up on the parking brake cable bracket and speedo cable


all of this left me with the trans mount about 1" too far forward to drop into the pocket on the trans cross member (more on that later)


with the weight of the engine on brand new 22RE rubber mounts, the oil pan dropped about 1/2" and was a bit too close (I used 5/8" spacers when I made the brackets).  On the plus side, the linkage drops away from the pan when the wheels are turned to either side



the poly engine mounts I was using on the 7M had 1/4" spacers underneath them, I reused one of the spacers and that gave me enough space to feel comfortable about oil pan clearance.  I'll probably add a spacer to the other side as well later


I didn't get a chance yet to compare how much the stock throttle cable moves vs. how much it takes to open the throttle on the engine, but the 1UZ throttle bracket will obviously not work


i tried moving it forward one set of holes, but it won't work + the mount itself is too thick for the stock cable to allow any adjustment


back to the trans mount . . .  slotting out holes in the cross member and trans mount didn't give me enough shift to get it to bolt up. you know the saying, "if all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail"? well, if you have a welder, anything metal is whatever the hell you want it to be (trans mount cut/rewelded). yes, the welds look crappy, but they passed the hammer test. I don't think anyone changed the tip on the shop welder since I did it about 5 years ago. could have done better with my welder at home, probably going to make a tube crossmember and use a completely stock mount when I have some time


I believe I won't have to get the rear driveshaft cut or lengthened.  From fully collapsed to extended to the point where the slip yoke is right at the edge of the seal is about 3.125".  At full droop, I still have 5/8" of an inch before the slip yoke pulls out of the seal and a bit more before the slip yoke comes apart.  Once it's on the ground I can remeasure, and if I think it's necessary, I have an old GX470 driveshaft which is slightly longer.  The stock one is still only 1/2" more extended than it was originally


end of day 3.  engine, trans, rear driveshaft installed.  time for wiring and a few other ancillaries.  After 30 years of the slip yoke not moving, the front driveshaft slip yoke is stuck/seized - I'm hoping soaking it and some heat will free it up.  Check it out, the hood closes and it looks drivable again:)
'85 RA64 Celica GT notchback

Offline sirdan

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Re: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap
« Reply #19 on: Oct 07, 2018, 11:29:31 pm »
Wow lots done already! Very exciting! They make spacers for the driveshafts if you need one to be longer, they are reasonably priced. Really excited to see it move along. I forgot if I asked about the radiator already. That was one thing I had issues with on my 302 toyota. I really think I needed a little more radiator but I didn't have room. Ended up putting 3 fans on the thing to keep it cool in traffic. Next one I do ill figure out how to fit a bigger radiator.

when we did our first v8 swap with a 305 in a 2wd toyota pickup we stuck the 22re radiator in to make a few laps around the block. It was real late at night so there was no traffic what so ever. if we kept it moving above 35 on low throttle it would cool. If you got in it you could watch the temp raise pretty quickly. at idle it would not cool. Anyway it was an interesting experiment. I think he ended up using a junkyard v6 s10 radiator or something like that, worked good on the 2wd with street conditions.
1988 4runner

Offline corax

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Re: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap
« Reply #20 on: Oct 07, 2018, 11:59:55 pm »
Thanks, can't wait to get this beast running.  One of my co-workers borrowed a trailer to tow it home for me tomorrow, hoping to get it running this week yet (if the eBay seller actually ever sends the ECU to me which should have come with it anyway). 

I've been looking at this radiator.  Dimensions seem right to fit the 4runner + it looks like it'll be easy to mount to the truck and has nut-serts already installed for fans
https://www.amazon.com/Champion-Cooling-Landcruiser-Aluminum-Radiator/dp/B00AOCT8IY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538956105&sr=8-1&keywords=champion+cooling+toyota+landcruiser+model+ec1213
'85 RA64 Celica GT notchback

Offline twotone_ra64

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Re: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap
« Reply #21 on: Oct 08, 2018, 02:42:53 am »
Man, been loving all the pics of this build. Great progress so far, can't wait to see her fired up!!
Celica the '84 Two-tone RA64 - Phase 2 In Progress! (159k); 1UZ-FE V8 Swap, W58 5-speed swap, Koni x Swift x T3 suspension, 6G Celica seat belts, TRD 2-way LSD, Konig Rewind 15x7" +0, zenki taillights, Cobra Imola Pro-fit seat, T3 seat rails
Mia the '91 Miata - Revived Twice! (264k); BP-5A 1.8L swap, an NB in NA clothes
Lilith the '94 Legend GS - The New Smooth Daily™ :shades: (144k)

Offline ozzie

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Re: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap
« Reply #22 on: Oct 08, 2018, 06:43:08 am »
I think I'd pull that trans mount and redo the weld. It's probably going to see a lot of vibration, and I think those welds will fail.

For the throttle cable bracket, if you cut it down to fit the other two bolt holes and pulled out the rubber thing, could you weld in a washer and have the spacing work? If not, maybe weld one of the nuts to the washer, then use some tubing to space it back? Just my thoughts for a quick and dirty solution, I've been finding out a lot lately how long simple things like fabricating a bracket from scratch can really take.
'84 Celica GT - 261k mi

Offline RedCar

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Re: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap
« Reply #23 on: Oct 08, 2018, 02:21:35 pm »
I might have missed it somewhere... but with the extra thickness of the adapter plate, do you need to compensate the input shaft length to engage the pilot bearing and clutch splines?
83 GT Sport

Offline corax

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Re: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap
« Reply #24 on: Oct 10, 2018, 03:42:19 am »
I think I'd pull that trans mount and redo the weld. It's probably going to see a lot of vibration, and I think those welds will fail.

For the throttle cable bracket, if you cut it down to fit the other two bolt holes and pulled out the rubber thing, could you weld in a washer and have the spacing work? If not, maybe weld one of the nuts to the washer, then use some tubing to space it back? Just my thoughts for a quick and dirty solution, I've been finding out a lot lately how long simple things like fabricating a bracket from scratch can really take.

Yeah, that's just temporary.  I'm gonna buy a new one and just make a new cross member to fit, or maybe take a tape measure to the junkyard to see if a 3 liter crossmember will work better

It seems like it's always the small details which take the longest time ;)
Tonight's project was getting started on the oil filter mount bracket . . . and finding out I got the wrong size AN fittings when I ordered them almost a year ago. 

I might have missed it somewhere... but with the extra thickness of the adapter plate, do you need to compensate the input shaft length to engage the pilot bearing and clutch splines?

It's all taken into account and nothing has to be  compensated for.  There is a difference in early and late style R150f transmissions, so the correct adapter needs to be ordered.  Late style has a longer input, but also some internal upgrades like a triple cone syncro on 1st gear, double cone second, and a syncronized reverse to prevent grinding.
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Offline corax

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Re: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap
« Reply #25 on: Oct 14, 2018, 04:48:45 pm »
Monday, a coworker borrowed a trailer and towed my 4runner home for me where I can finish the rest of the swap


One of the first orders of business is to get it so I can move it around in gear with the starter, so I had to finish the oil filter relocation.  Tuesday, I figured out that the -8AN oil filter adapter I ordered for the engine was actually -10AN, and none of the hoses and fittings I ordered last year would work.  So I ordered new -10AN pieces, and while I was waiting for them to show up, made a bracket to bolt the filter mount onto the front diff.
Nice, short hoses, about 14" long each, and full flow fittings (bent tube, not a drilled block of metal) should reduce restriction to flow.  Note, the 45 degree -10 fittings barely fit next to each other on the engine adapter.


Partial view of my bracket on the front diff.  I used to use cardboard a lot when making pieces like this.  Now I like to measure the bolt holes, distance between the holes, then I go inside to make a model of it in Sketchup (CAD), and when I'm done, I can print the exact pattern.  My brackets are so exact now, I can drill holes to the same size as the bolts (so they barely slide through) and everything lines up without having to elongate or file anything bigger.


easy access to the filter for changes, and it's well protected (I have a skid plate that's going under it  / between the control arms again when I'm done)


plenty of room between the oil pan and the filter, I can even run one of the oversized filters if I decide to.  I only use Toyota (Denso) oil filters, they're not expensive and they're fairly high quality.
'85 RA64 Celica GT notchback

Offline corax

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Re: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap
« Reply #26 on: Oct 23, 2018, 02:40:33 am »
the 1UZ uses a single coolant temp sensor wired to the ECU, the ECU then sends the temperature to the instrument cluster via multiplex ( called MPX, similar to CAN bus).  My 1988 4runner cluster can't do anything with that computer-speak, so I needed a coolant temp sensor for my cluster.  There is a blank sensor port next to the OEM temp sensor.  the hole is 1/8" British pipe thread (not NPT).  The sensor I found came from a '94 Tercel, but seems to be fairly common in newer Toyotas and is fairly close (enough) to the resistance values of the original sensor for the truck


fabbed up and painted my cross-over pipe.   I still need to brace the tubes so vibration doesn't lead to cracked welds


the stock 22RE PS line was a bit too close to the steering column shaft.  If I knew ahead of time, I could have rotated my PS relocation bracket just a bit and it would've been fine.  I don't feel like making a new bracket, so I repurposed some Aeroquip high pressure hose and hose ends I has left over from my rallyx car to connect the pump to the gearbox

'85 RA64 Celica GT notchback

Offline sirdan

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Re: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap
« Reply #27 on: Oct 23, 2018, 10:48:28 pm »
How bad would have using one of those adapters for the oil filter have been? Also what kind of muffler are you going to run? That is half the reason I want to do the swap, to get that v8 sound!
1988 4runner

Offline corax

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Re: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap
« Reply #28 on: Oct 24, 2018, 12:57:02 pm »
How bad would have using one of those adapters for the oil filter have been? Also what kind of muffler are you going to run? That is half the reason I want to do the swap, to get that v8 sound!

I'm gonna keep my 2.5" pipe and Delta 50 muffler,  it sounded good, but not loud, with my 7M, hoping for the same with the 1UZ.

Like a sandwich adapter?  I'm not sure it'd help, but it may.  The problem is that there are a few different oil filter brackets, and some of them put the oil filter right into the side of the PS gear.  The SC400 has the lower oil pan in the wrong place for this swap, but it does have the correct oil filter bracket (similar to the 2UZ bracket below). 

The nice thing is that all the UZ engines (1, 2, 3UZ) use the same oil bracket mounting, so they're interchangeable. (LS400 style on the left, SC400 or 2UZ style on the right)
'85 RA64 Celica GT notchback

Offline corax

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Re: Corax's 1UZ VVTi 4runner swap
« Reply #29 on: Nov 04, 2018, 02:13:37 pm »
I wasn't able to figure out a good spot in the engine bay to mount the ECU in an enclosure, so I decided to mount it inside the 4runner after all.  This meant that I needed a US spec harness since the JDM harness goes through the firewall on the left side of the vehicle (and there's no room on the driver side for the ECU).  I found a cheap harness on eBay and stripped it completely down to the bare essentials.  Every piece of factory corrugated tube and electrical tape was pulled as well as removing all the auto trans wires.  It was then cable laced and re-covered.  It's just long enough to be routed through the factory hole in the firewall (using the original firewall grommet) and reach the ECU behind the glovebox.


There's not enough room between the glove box and evaporator box to mount the ECU, but there are 2 options to fix that.  The simplest way is to cut the curved back off of the glove box and put a new flat piece in its place.  Since I haven't had A/C for at least a decade and a half, I went my own way and modded the evap box to fit the ECU.





It sticks out the bottom a little bit, but it's not lower than the evap box itself.  I could have moved it up a bit higher, but I wouldn't have been able to get to all the bolts to fasten the evap box back into place.
'85 RA64 Celica GT notchback