twotone's 1UZ Swap Progress Thread!

[nick83]

Good thing you are still under lockdown, who knows how long the work would take the way you are out and about!
Will it all fit? LOL. Question about the extra weight up front, will you have to put some weight in the trunk to balance everything out. With all the suspension work you did, will it handle the extra weight and stress with the upgraded power?

[twotone_ra64]

That's definitely a good looking engine bay and engine! I'd say you have the throw out bearing on upside down, the bleed port definitely needs to be at the top.

Thank you! And good catch, I flipped the TOB around and clocked it in a good position with the bleeder above the input port. I'm a little concerned about the proximity of the bleeder port to that bolt on the adapter plate, though.



Unfortunately the other two available positions weren't any better.



I'll see how to finesse the lines in there once I drill holes in the BH.

Good thing you are still under lockdown, who knows how long the work would take the way you are out and about!
Will it all fit? LOL. Question about the extra weight up front, will you have to put some weight in the trunk to balance everything out. With all the suspension work you did, will it handle the extra weight and stress with the upgraded power?

Right?! A job is right around the corner though, so I'm trying to work as quickly as possible. Oh it'll definitely fit, and to counteract the additional 60 lbs over the 22R-E, I'm relocating the 38.2 lbs battery to the trunk. See Episode 3 of my build diary to see which exact parts I'll be using to do the job. I'll be posting about it here too when I get to installing it, of course. And yes, my suspension will handle it just fine! The 8 kg/mm springs in my coilovers will make the front end lower by about 2mm or so.

[NWcelica]

So the input shaft plate with the sleeve is not used at all? Any chance you have the part number for the seal that is used? I received my XAT kit this week, but I opted to not buy the t56 and lines option since I already had one on hand. My kit did not come with any seals or instructions though so I'm not sure what is needed there. I wish they had explained that on their product listing.

Your progress looks great! Cant wait to see the engine in the car. The wrinkle blue looks awesome.

[twotone_ra64]

So the input shaft plate with the sleeve is not used at all? Any chance you have the part number for the seal that is used? I received my XAT kit this week, but I opted to not buy the t56 and lines option since I already had one on hand. My kit did not come with any seals or instructions though so I'm not sure what is needed there. I wish they had explained that on their product listing.

Your progress looks great! Cant wait to see the engine in the car. The wrinkle blue looks awesome.

The input shaft plate is not used at all. And I do! It just uses the stock seal; XAT provides a Timken 1981 input shaft seal, or you can use Toyota 90311-30115 for OEM goodness. I didn't get instructions either. By the way, did you purchase a pilot bearing? I did, and didn't receive it in my kit.

And thanks!! I thought the blue would be a winner.

[NWcelica]

Thanks! That's great info, I appreciate it. I did not see an option to add a pilot bearing to the kit when I was making my order. When I received mine it was not in there either. I emailed them and they said the pilot bearing comes with the clutch typically. I chose to buy a clutch kit later so I haven't verified that's true. If you end up figuring out the pilot bearing before me, let me know. I'd  be interested in that part number as well. There is also the Xcessive pilot that you can buy individually for $16. https://xcessivemanufacturing.com/toyota-t-mt-pb.html

If you download the instructions off their website it lists a part number "roller pilot bearing 6201" which is a common bearing so I may try that out.

[twotone_ra64]

Thanks! That's great info, I appreciate it. I did not see an option to add a pilot bearing to the kit when I was making my order. When I received mine it was not in there either. I emailed them and they said the pilot bearing comes with the clutch typically. I chose to buy a clutch kit later so I haven't verified that's true. If you end up figuring out the pilot bearing before me, let me know. I'd  be interested in that part number as well. There is also the Xcessive pilot that you can buy individually for $16. https://xcessivemanufacturing.com/toyota-t-mt-pb.html

If you download the instructions off their website it lists a part number "roller pilot bearing 6201" which is a common bearing so I may try that out.

I found the pilot bearing inside the SPEC clutch kit! If you ordered a SPEC kit, it'll be in there. I thought it would need a different pilot bearing but turns out the one they provide is the correct "6201" bearing.



-----

Update time! I tried my hand at making brake lines! It was actually really cool. I got a 25' roll of 3/16" copper nickel brake line, a metric brake fitting kit, an Imperial 368-FH pipe bending tool, and a Snap-On BluePoint TFM5A metric brake flaring tool. Wasn't going cheapo on a flaring tool, since I know bad flares equal trouble later down the road.

My line from the clutch master to the prop valve input was 9" long, and making this line taught me that you should make your flares and add the fittings before you bend the line. Not bend the line first.





I also had to make some modifications to the stock steel lines, and in this case, shortening the line that crosses over from the left front brake tee to the right side caliper hard line.



I already had a pipe cutting tool around, which made cake of cutting the lines despite the worn blade.



The Flyin' Miata kit came with an M10 brake union, but I'm going to need one more for the rear line.





Then, I made a 52" line for connecting the prop valve output to the rear line that goes along the chassis. You'll see here where the additional union is needed. I also broke out my new rivnut tool and added a threaded insert near the line's connection point so I could add a p-clamp.



Purdy.



Also gave my heater core pipes a good clean with a wire wheel.





Next up was to tackle my engine mounts! I got the Energy Suspension 3.1108G poly mounts for a lower profile mount over the stock pieces.



Cutting the notches and filing the inside of the mounting holes made for a super easy fit!





I also ended up having to revisit the T56 throwout. I made holes in the bellhousing to route the clutch lines, and like mentioned before, had an issue with clearance from the TOB fitting and the bellhousing adapter bolts.





I ended up clocking the TOB to the "middle" of the three positions. The bleeder fitting fouled on the provided hex-head bolt though.



What I did was take an old bellhousing bolt, cut the captive washer off of it, cut a half-inch more thread into the bolt, and used it instead.



This created the correct clearance without having to leave out a bolt!



That's it for now! I also received my thicc aluminum radiator, a CXRacing Nissan 240SX S13 SR20 swap radiator. I know, that was a mouthful, but it's the tried-and-true radiator setup. I got two 9" and one 12" SPAL fans to take care of the cooling, too.



More to come!

[twotone_ra64]

Another update!

Finally tore into the engine, as all of my engine parts finally arrived. First order of business was to pull off and reseal the oil pans! Both the steel and aluminum pans.







Thankfully the strainer looks clean!





Made sure to replace the oil pickup tube gasket too.





I also pulled off the oil pump to replace the front main seal and replace a usually hard-to-access o-ring.





The o-ring in there was flattened and hard like plastic. Glad I replaced it with an OEM piece, that area can be a source of pesky leaks if left unchanged!



Put it all back together with a new water pump, as part of the Gates timing kit I bought, as well as new OEM cam seals and rear cam plugs.



Sealed up nicely with Toyota 103 FIPG sealant!



Also rebuilt the starter motor solenoid with brand new contacts and a new solenoid plunger!



Still need to do the starter bolt mod as suggested by corax.



Rebuilt the front crank harness too; wrapped it up with new plastic loom, electrical tape and Tesa tape!



Ended up routing some wires incorrectly, which I fixed later.



With that all done, I could finally install the new timing set, covers and accessories! The dizzy caps, rotors, coil packs, plastic timing cover gaskets, and accessory belt pulleys are all new.



I need to figure out what to do about the fan idler pulley - since there's no hydraulic fan anymore, the pulley nuts don't thread on all the way, and the studs are too short to pull out.



I have a problem with the Xcessive oil filter adapter - the position of the oil pressure sending unit prevents the AC compressor from fitting (very important!). I ordered the Blake Machine oil filter adapter which has the ports on the sides of the block. Called beforehand to confirm fitment, they were very helpful!



Now to sort out the fuel lines; fuel feed, return, and evap return.





The evap line needs to run over to the right side of the car, since the 4Runner charcoal canister will be mounted here. Simply bending the hardline put it exactly next to my custom rear brake line. The lines along the tranny tunnel will need some kind of heatwrap since exhaust piping will be running through there!



Of course the stock fuel line has to go, since I'm planning to run an all-custom-AN-fitted-and-braided-line fuel setup. I disconnected the fuel line here from this fitting.





Turned out to be an M14x1.5 size, which will translate to a -6 AN size. I'll be getting every single fitting and braided line from Vibrant Performance - even to convert the straight return tube to a -4 AN fitting! Pricey, but so worth it. They make almost every fitting imaginable.





Fuel feed banjo is a 12mm, while the return is a 10mm.



At this point, the motor is pretty much ready to drop in, and once the fuel lines are ready and final engine bay prep is complete, I'll be dropping this bad boy in!



Episodes 4 and 5 of the build are also now out on my channel!

Episode 4

Episode 5

[corax]

Nice! 
On the oil pan, if you find you need a bit of space at the back of it, look into a 98-00 GS400 oil pan.  All of the 1UZ (xx400) and 3UZ (xx430) front sump metal oil pans use the same bolt pattern, but some are shaped slightly differently (check the pics on RockAuto).  Believe the height of the pans are the same or very close

GS400 VVTi (see how the rear side is pushed forward?  you'd need an oil pickup to match)


LS400 VVTi

[nick83]

Really nice and meticulous work. One question, will this pass the California smog testing as a Celica or will you have a variance due to the engine  swap?

[twotone_ra64]

Nice! 
On the oil pan, if you find you need a bit of space at the back of it, look into a 98-00 GS400 oil pan.  All of the 1UZ (xx400) and 3UZ (xx430) front sump metal oil pans use the same bolt pattern, but some are shaped slightly differently (check the pics on RockAuto).  Believe the height of the pans are the same or very close

GS400 VVTi (see how the rear side is pushed forward?  you'd need an oil pickup to match)


LS400 VVTi

Thanks for the suggestions! We'll see how the oil pan fitment goes, the stock UCF10 pan has been shown to work out though.

Really nice and meticulous work. One question, will this pass the California smog testing as a Celica or will you have a variance due to the engine  swap?

Thanks Nick! This should pass as long as I have the stock ECU (EFI system), EGR, all 3-way catalytic converters (2x pre-cats, 1x main cat), and all four O2 sensors. Those are all of the required emission control systems on the 1990-1992 LS400s. Then I'll have to take it to a BAR referee (most likely at Skyline College) for inspection and then my car will basically smog as a 1992 LS400.

[twotone_ra64]

Another update incoming!

Starting back again with the fuel system; I got a M14x1.5 to -6 AN adapter, hooked that up to a Fuelab 10 micron inline filter (81801-1), and now have my fuel feed setup ready! The fuel filter clamp fit on existing threaded holes in the engine bay, with a little filing action on the clamp holes.



I had my first go at making custom braided lines, which was very cool.





This little fitting converts the stock 1/4" fuel return tube to a -6 AN. I meant to get a 1/4" tube to -4 AN fitting from Vibrant, but it's been 2+ months, and it still hasn't arrived. This uses a standard 1/4" compression fitting for the seal, so it'll be very easy to replace when it comes time.




 
I then mounted up my 1995 4Runner charcoal canister behind the RH shock tower, again using existing threaded holes. Thanks Toyota!





One side needed a 1" spacer in order to utilize the stock charcoal canister mounting clamp.



And that all ended up being a very clean install.



Then it was time to address some heat shielding issues on the RH side of the trans tunnel where the fuel and brake lines run. Some DEI heat wrap took care of that. It has a fibreglass mat on the inside, and secures with velcro.





I put the rest of the remaining wrap on the steering shaft for good luck.



I was having issues with my Xcessive oil filter relocation block, as it was too thick and the sensor mounting location prevented the AC compressor from bolting on.





So I replaced it with this, the Blake Machine oil filter relocation block. It comes with -10 AN fittings and TWO sensor ports; one on the front, and one on the back.



I added a small 90 degree 1/8" NPT elbow from Vibrant to space the oil pressure sending unit away from the engine block, as there was a rib on the block that it would interfere with.



But, bam! The AC compressor fits up perfectly. Mr. Blake really wanted you to have AC with your UZ swap!



Next up was managing the mounts for the CXRacing S13 SR20 swap radiator. I started out with some "CAD" design to get an idea of what the mounts should look like. It was also important to make sure I could add rubber grommets to the mounts for vibration isolation.





Then I made the mounts by hand using 2" wide, 1/8" thick aluminum bar. The grommets came from McMaster Carr, since they had the odd sizes I needed.





I need more fabrication tools.



The mounts are super strong. I can bounce the car up/down on the radiator.





Clearance from the hood should be fine too, the radiator cap barely peeks out from the top of the radiator support.



Made these little spacers in order to keep everything secure.



I also dropped the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump for something a little more hefty.



Stock vs Deatschwerks DW200 (9-201-1000)



The body of the DW200 fuel pump is smaller than the stock unit, but it'll still fit just fine with the stock rubber grommet.



But, in order to keep the smaller FP body secure, I cut the original fuel pump hose and flattened it out to use as damper material, and added a hose clamp to further secure the FP.



Easily soldered up the connections with some heat shrink.



I tried to sort out the serpentine belt, but it won't be able to use the tensioner pulley properly. I'll have to look into some kind of solution to add an idler pulley where the PS pump used to be.



I also got a little treat for the W58!



Since I already have the BillyM shifter bushings installed, the shift lever pivot bushing had to be swapped over.





Going to see if patwhac can make me a little adapter bracket to add a Hurst shifter handle to the Cube shifter. ;-)



Finally, I got an ICT Billet battery tray for the Odyssey PC1200 battery.



Think I might mount the battery somewhere back here in the RH side of the trunk. I have an idea on how to mount the bracket on the sheet metal, securely, and keep the least amount of material poking through the metal since the fuel tank sits VERY closely to the sheet metal on that side.



That's it for now! Now that I'm working, I have even less time to work on the project, but I can't wait to get this thing running!

New YouTube episodes of the build are available as well, go give 'em a watch!

Episode 6

Episode 7

[corax]

I tried to sort out the serpentine belt, but it won't be able to use the tensioner pulley properly. I'll have to look into some kind of solution to add an idler pulley where the PS pump used to be.

You could probably do something similar to what I did.  It uses the same idler pulley that's already on the engine - built with a piece of angle iron, about 6" of HREW pipe and a small scrap of 1/8" flat stock.  It bolts to the block and braces itself to the top alternator bolt.  Doing it this way let me keep the belt in contact with almost 3/4 of the pulley circumference to prevent slippage.
thread post link: https://www.celica-gts.com/forums/index.php?topic=30533.msg438947#msg438947

[twotone_ra64]

You could probably do something similar to what I did.  It uses the same idler pulley that's already on the engine - built with a piece of angle iron, about 6" of HREW pipe and a small scrap of 1/8" flat stock.  It bolts to the block and braces itself to the top alternator bolt.  Doing it this way let me keep the belt in contact with almost 3/4 of the pulley circumference to prevent slippage.
thread post link: https://www.celica-gts.com/forums/index.php?topic=30533.msg438947#msg438947

Thanks for the suggestion! I think I have the next best thing, which just came in overnight from Japan today. This is the idler pulley bracket for 2006-2008 Lexus GS430s with the 3UZFE. GS430s had electric power assisted steering, rather than the usual hydraulics, so the power steering pump was replaced with this little bracket and the same pulley you've shown above. Sadly, I couldn't source one from any local yards, as they wouldn't part the engine out like that, nor was there anyone parting one out.



With a brand new pulley, outer washer and pulley bolt installed, I mocked up the bracket by holding it flat against its mounting point. And it lines right up!!





The ONLY trouble with it is where the bracket holes line up with the original power steering pump mounts. The bracket mounting holes are much closer together than the original mounts. I have one set of holes lined up, but the other with the stud is a bit over an inch off.



I'll have to thread the stud out and make some kind of bracket to bridge the gap. Man, I wish I had a mig welder or some more fabrication tools!!

[Railanet]

twotone. I just saw your RA65 1UZ swap videos on YouTube. Your doing a better job of documenting that I have. I saw you bought the Xcessive motor mount brackets. You mentioned in the video that they had to be symmetrical. I have had my run in's with Xcessive on this. Go to my website and look at my past issues with these mounts. http://rayscelica.com/raysv8celica/MotorMount1.html. I know my solution is not an easy one but Xcesseive will hold you up for 6 months telling you that you have a special application. I wish you would expose this on the You Tube video. Talk to Swan Song about this issue. He has had the same problem.
I am going to get started back on my 1UZ swap on about the 1st part of 2021. My wife and I moved into a new home with a big 36'x40' metal building at the end of the driveway and I have been building a new shop to do the conversion in. If the hatchback 1UZ works out, I will do my 85 vert.
Good Luck and keep posting your progress and videos. 

[twotone_ra64]

twotone. I just saw your RA65 1UZ swap videos on YouTube. Your doing a better job of documenting that I have. I saw you bought the Xcessive motor mount brackets. You mentioned in the video that they had to be symmetrical. I have had my run in's with Xcessive on this. Go to my website and look at my past issues with these mounts. http://rayscelica.com/raysv8celica/MotorMount1.html. I know my solution is not an easy one but Xcesseive will hold you up for 6 months telling you that you have a special application. I wish you would expose this on the You Tube video. Talk to Swan Song about this issue. He has had the same problem.

Ray, thank you so much for bringing this up, as well as in my YT video comments! I have definitely read about the issues from Xcessive, and I was hoping to bypass all of that... turns out I just couldn't get away from it.

I'd like to clarify a few things with you in regard to engine positioning, and the photos from your site;

1. The motor mounts you're using are different to mine, which are Energy 3.1108G Jeep transmission mounts. These are low-profile pucks with 3 mounting holes so you can adjust the fore/aft spacing. From the center hole of the mount, each fore/aft hole is spaced 3/4" away. I think this extra 3/4" in the aft direction may be sufficient for mounting purposes. It seems like the image in your site (below) shows the ideal position that you desired, but leaves no room for the heater core piping.



Can you confirm what position this photo represents?

2. Do you have a good clearance-to-firewall photo after securing the engine with your mounts? Could you take a measurement from the rear plane of the upper intake manifold to the firewall?



3. If answers to the above result in absolutely requiring new mounts... would you be at all willing to produce another set of them? If not, that is totally fine.

4. Can you also measure the depth of your custom bellhousing from each flange? I wonder how this compares with my 1UZ BH & XAT Racing adapter plate, so I can get an idea of how well the transmission will bolt up to the stock x-member.

I am going to get started back on my 1UZ swap on about the 1st part of 2021. My wife and I moved into a new home with a big 36'x40' metal building at the end of the driveway and I have been building a new shop to do the conversion in. If the hatchback 1UZ works out, I will do my 85 vert.
Good Luck and keep posting your progress and videos.

Sounds good! I am definitely jealous of your new shop, I'd kill to have a space that large all to myself! Thank you, and you'll definitely see some Celica videos from me soon!

-Alex