Steering modifications?

[blockade-runner85]

seeing as i completely replaced the suspension from front to back (kyb excel g front back, strut mounts, tie rod ends, new lbj, etc) im next tackling the really loose feeling steering response. im replacing the power steering hydraulic hoses as the reservoir return line is cracked and leaks, and the high pressure hose is apparently leaking too but wanted any other advice on tightening up steering in these cars. i occasionally drive my dads 82 celica which has completely replaced steering components (rack, pump, lines, the whole kibosh) and it still feels loose. i plan to get t3 upgraded knuckles but am curious on any other modifications to get a nice crisp steering feel.

[sirdan]

Did you do the inner tie rods?

[Teranfirbt]

Rack bushings need to be on your list, they're probably a big part of your loose feel. Is the problem on center looseness or general lack of responsiveness?

[blockade-runner85]

a lot of on center looseness. i can wiggle the steering wheel while on highways and the car barely responds. will note down the steering rack bushing and inner tie rods as well, thanks

[danf]

I had this problem about 10 years ago and inner tie rods and steering rack bushings fixed it. It's starting to get a little loose on me again now though.

[Sigma Projects]

Rack bushings need to be on your list, they're probably a big part of your loose feel. Is the problem on center looseness or general lack of responsiveness?

Agreed, they are quite large bushings so I wouldn't be surprised if they were the culprit.

[Teranfirbt]

It's also a pretty terrible design, since there's nothing actually holding the rack from moving axially besides the shoulder of the driver's side bushing. It'd be interesting to design a better rack mounting system and see if that helps center feel a bunch.

[Sigma Projects]

is there a lot of axial load on the rack? I remember that was a thing with certain center take off racks, but didn't realize it was an issue with our rack. I do know what you're talking about though since a lot of newer racks bolt to a chassis hard point rather than float in a bushing.

[Teranfirbt]

Axial load on the rack is what makes the wheels turn  . Sloppy rack bushings can lead to poor center feel because the rack can slide a little as the force direction changes left to right.

[Sigma Projects]

oh forgive me. I was thinking rotational load or something like that. Center take off racks sometimes have enough force on the rack that the rack gear can twist inside the housing.

[blockade-runner85]

the inner tie rods were a major culprit, as well as the bushings. right side had clear wear marks, as well as serious degradation. R/P was also gushing out the top bearing where steering shaft mates to it, so rockauto to the rescue. Also snagged some beautiful Raptor Racing poly bushes, thanks to you lot doing that group buy years back. the high pressure line is another serious concern for me since the input hose (where it has that flex point then loops behind the rack) is another gusher at the crimp point where it turns from flex hose to hard line. i was expecting huge ENGINE leaks but it looks like the entire hydraulic steering system was borked. i have another PS pump too i will be installing since the pump weeps quite a lot. what a pain jeez, excited to swing it around afterwards down the river though, things gonna be slick.

[Sigma Projects]

do yourself a favor and try the steering out with the power steering lines removed. I personally like how a depowered steering rack feels. I had a pump go out on me and it was hell to turn the steering rack. Later I got new tires and it made a big difference. Then when I started my 85 project car I had the power steering lines removed since it was getting an engine swap and I found it very easy to turn the steering wheel with one hand at a stop and moving it around felt pretty easy.

[blockade-runner85]

did you just loop the hardlines from input to output?

[ozzie]

Yes, loop the high and low pressure lines, and any air/fluid still in the system will just get flowed in and out. If you cap the lines you'll be pressurizing the system when you turn the wheel, which will make it really hard to turn.

[twotone_ra64]

Better yet, if you can attach the hi/lo pressure lines to a vented catch can of some sort, you won't have any pressure build up at all while keeping the internal seals lubricated.